Tips & Tricks: Bra Pattern Cutting

Today I want to share my desired approach of slicing out bra styles (or some other patterns). I started out the usage of this technique of reducing after observing how our in-residence sample-makers, cutters, and pattern-makers cut their patterns.
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For this method you will need:
Fabric Scissors
Dotted Pattern Paper
Silk Pins
Pattern Weights (optionally available)
You can use butcher paper or tissue paper rather than the dotted pattern paper. I choose the dotted pattern paper because you could use the tips on the paper to align your sample pieces to the cloth correctly.
For this demo, I’m reducing out a Watson Bra on 6.25″ stretch lace and stretch mesh lining. I line the lace up with the dotted sample paper so that the DOGS are parallel to a immediately line on the sample paper (usually the paper area). With slim stretch laces, it’s miles often difficult to get all of your sample pieces onto the lace consistent with DOGS. I typically lay out the sample portions within the way that satisfactory conserves fabric. Also, I always make sure that the lower back band is laid out consistent with its DOGS in order that it can stretch across the frame.
Pin minimally! It’s easy to distort the small pattern portions. Ensure to pin the pattern pieces to the material AND the dotted sample paper. For large pattern pieces, I may also use sample weights to hold the styles in vicinity as I cut. Bra styles are often small so I typically don’t use the weights.
Start slicing! Always cut in the direction that feels natural to you. With this technique, there is no need to contort your self into unsavory positions to make a cut.
Move the blended unit of dotted pattern paper, pattern, and material round as essential to cut readily. If you’re involved about shifting the fabric or distortion, use a sample weight to keep the whole thing in place first before transferring it.
For the stretch mesh lining, I line the cloth up so that the directly grain line is parallel to a instantly line (usually the edge of the paper). In this situation, it also in order that occurs that the course of the greatest stretch is also parallel to the instantly grain line. Using the dotted sample paper as a tenet, I lay out the pattern pieces in line with their DOGS. Same approach of pinning and slicing applies.
I honestly like this reducing technique as it emphasizes correct cutting and it’s incredible for slippery fabrics like silks. The downsides are that it’s fairly wasteful and it dulls your fabric scissors quick. (This is the purpose why we’re taught to commonly by no means use our material scissors on paper.)