Installation of stairs made of marble and porcelain stoneware
Installing marble tile is similar to putting in different types of tile, such as ceramic or porcelain tile. In truth, the stairs are quite directly-forward. After preparing the subfloor, glue down the tiles, grout, then seal. Plus, if you have formerly installed tile, then chances are you already own maximum of the equipment had to install marble tile.
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1.Prepare the Subfloor
Marble ground tile (like several ground tile) calls for a clean, flat, water-resistant base for set up. In most cases, this could require getting rid of the prevailing floor protecting down to the subfloor layer, which is usually plywood or MDF.
Once you have uncovered the wood subfloor, cowl it with a layer of cement board to feature each stiffness and moisture-resistance to the ground. Cement board does not forestall moisture from passing thru it—it’s no longer a vapor or moisture barrier—but it might not be damaged with the aid of moisture as wood is. Cement board also is engineered to bond very well with thin-set mortar adhesive, which you’ll use to install your marble tile.
To deploy cement board, unfold thin-set adhesive over the wooden subfloor, the use of a 1/4-inch notched trowel. Lay the cement board sheets into the skinny-set and attach them to the subflooring with 1 1/four-inch cement board screws. Leave approximately 1/8 inch of space at all seams and in which the cement board meets the walls.
Apply cement board joint tape (a unique alkali-resistant mesh tape) over the seams among the cement board panels, then cover the tape with a thin layer of skinny-set, the use of a 6-inch drywall knife. Make positive the seams are clean and flat and flush with the panel faces.
Tips
Marble tiles are thick, so laying the tiles over the top of the prevailing ground is not often practical. Installing marble tile generally requires demolition and elimination of the existing ground covering.
Because marble is heavy, your subfloor need to be extraordinarily robust. This may additionally require some structural work to boost the joists supporting the subfloor earlier than installing tiles.
2.Create Reference Lines
Your installation will appearance first-rate if the tiles radiate outward from the center of the room, rather than beginning all at once from one of the walls. In order to achieve this symmetrical impact, you want to create reference strains on the floor of the cement board underlayment.
Find the middle of opposing partitions and use a chalk line to mark a route among them, dividing the room in half of.
Then, measure to the center of that line, and use a T-square to attract a perpendicular line at the mark, the use of a pencil. Snap a chalk line throughout the ground the use of the pencil line as a guide, dividing the ground into four equal quadrants.
Check your format via test-fitting complete tiles along each reference traces from wall to wall. If the closing row of tiles against any of the walls is much less than a few inches huge, regulate your chalk line grid as wanted in order that the tiles along the walls are a suitable width, based totally for your choice. This commonly way that a tile, as opposed to a grout line, will be on the very center of the ground, however there’s simply no downside to this.
3.Mix and Spread the Mortar
Mix skinny-set mortar in line with the manufacturer’s instructions. Mix most effective a touch bit at a time, and make more while necessary. Using a notched trowel, unfold the adhesive onto the floor, starting at a corner of the format wherein the reference strains intersect on the middle of the room.
As you work, use the notched fringe of the trowel to create grooves within the mortar. This will boom the adhesive strength of the bond among the cement board and the bottom of the marble.
Tip
On marble tiles that are 12 inches square and smaller, a 1/4-inch notched trowel will create large sufficient grooves. However, when you have lots large tiles, or if you are using abnormal tumbled or natural cleft substances, use a 1/2-inch notched trowel to create wider, deeper grooves within the adhesive.